By: deb

I feel like you can learn a lot about a person from what they choose for breakfast. For example, my husband likes a big, fluffy stack of pancakes (preferably with fruit), my son a scrambled egg with a side of toast and marmite, and my daughter something, anything, with bacon. Me? I love hash browns. Specifically, the ones made with grated potato that have been crisped to a deep golden and are slightly flattened into a patty. You might find them on diner menus and in the frozen food aisle; I prefer to make my own.

Making hash browns from scratch at home is something I do a lot. It’s not hard — the most time-consuming part is grating the potato, and there are many workarounds if you’re not a fan of that (food processor shredding attachment, buying them already grated, etc.). But my favorite, the way that gets them the most evenly browned and crisp, has always been to make them into patties. The edges and surface get nice and lacy and crunchy, and the interior stays soft. It’p perfect.

There are two key factors in getting truly excellent hash brown patties at home: a lot of starch removal and a hot, buttered surface. I’ve gone into this process with crispy potato roast, and it’s the same here: grate your potato, then place it in a dishcloth or paper towel, and squeeze, squeeze, squeeze out as much water as you can. This is what helps them get truly golden and crisp. Then, you need a good amount of butter and/or oil in a skillet (or a sheet pan in the oven, if you prefer, instructions below) to cook them. Don’t skimp. You’ll be so glad you didn’t.

What’s your breakfast order? If it’s hash browns, then you and I are probably already friends.

Hash Brown Patties

Yields 6 to 8 patties
Time: 40 minutes

2 pounds russet potatoes (about 3 medium or 2 large)
2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste
1/2 teaspoon black pepper, plus more to taste
2 to 4 tablespoons butter, olive oil or a mix of both

Make the hash brown mixture:

Grate potatoes on the large holes of a box grater. Transfer grated potatoes to a large dishtowel or a couple layers of paper towels. Gather edges and twist tightly to squeeze out as much moisture as possible. The potatoes will reduce by about half their volume and become a very dense ball.

Transfer potatoes to a large bowl. Add salt and pepper and toss to combine. Taste and adjust seasonings.

For stove-top hash browns:

Heat a large (10- to 12-inch) nonstick or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons of butter and/or oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pan.

Scoop 1/3 to 1/2 cup of potato mixture into the skillet and flatten into a 1/2-inch-thick patty. Repeat with remaining potato mixture, keeping patties 1 inch apart. Don’t overcrowd the pan; you might need to cook them in two batches.

Cook until deeply golden on the bottom, 5 to 8 minutes. Gently flip each patty with a thin spatula, pressing down again to flatten, and cook until golden brown on the second side, another 5 to 8 minutes.

Transfer to a platter. If cooking a second batch, add remaining 1 to 2 tablespoons butter or oil to the pan and repeat with remaining potato mixture. Serve hot.

For oven-baked hash browns:

Heat oven to 425°F. Spread 2 to 4 tablespoons of butter, olive oil or a mix of both across a large sheet pan.

Scoop 1/3 to 1/2 cup of potato mixture onto the prepared sheet pan and flatten into a 1/2-inch-thick patty. Repeat with remaining potato mixture, keeping patties 1 inch apart.

Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until deeply golden on the bottom. Gently flip each patty with a thin spatula, pressing down again to flatten, and bake until golden brown on the second side, another 15 to 20 minutes. Serve hot.

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